Stark Varg FAQ

The difference is the model, not the year.

• MX 1 (2023–25, gen1/gen2) — 6.5 kWh battery, the first model.
• EX (2025+) — 7.2 kWh, new wiring, frame, phone, enduro suspension and fork angle, headlight, brake light.
• MX 1.2 (2025+) — 7.2 kWh, new wiring, frame, phone, revised MX suspension.
• SM (2026+) — new wiring, frame, phone, SM suspension, fork angle, triple clamp, headlight, brake light.

Plastics and wheels are the same on all models; among the brakes only the front one on the SM differs. Motors and gearboxes are identical. Gen1 and gen2 barely differ: the charging port was moved and the wiring rerouted.

From the EX and MX 1.2 manuals (N·m)

Front end and handlebar

• front axle (lock bolt) — 35, axle clamps — 15
• front caliper — 25
• phone dock (holds the handlebar) — 30
• hand brake master cylinder, clamp — 6
• throttle — 2.5, throttle clip — 3, control switch — 2.5
• brake hose holder on the fork — 5, front fender — 8, number plate — 5

Frame and rear suspension

• swingarm (pivot) — 45, swingarm pivot pinch bolt — 25
• shock, top and bottom — 40
• pull rods — 60
• rocker: reverse nut — 20, main pivot — 60, lock nut — 60, pivot caps — 5
• side panels — top 20, bottom 30
• footpeg pin — 20, skid plate — 15
• side stand: bracket — 20, leg — 35
• VCU: side bolts — 2, center bolts — 55

Rear and brakes

• rear axle — 80
• rear sprocket bolts — 35
• brake disc bolts — 14
• foot brake master cylinder — 10, pedal pivot — 5
• chain slider — 5

Spoiler: rear center — 10, sides — 20, front — 5, carbon — 3.

Titanium fasteners use the same values and are checked after every ride.

From owners' experience: triple clamps — bottom 13–14, top 17; handlebar — 30. Gearbox: drain bolt 15, check bolt 5, filler plug 5. Kayaba fork: cartridge cap 29, bottom bolt 55, oil per leg 328 ml (295–370).

Engraving on the triple clamps (no torque for the clamps was found in official Stark documents): bottom — 17, top — 20, handlebar clamp on the top one — 25. The chat's consensus is 15 for the bottom clamp; whether to follow the engraving for the top clamp and bar clamp is still debated.

The letter is stamped on the left fork leg (at the bottom, on the axle foot) and on the shock spring carrier. Weight is with riding gear.

EX

• fork: H 4.4 · J 4.6 · K 4.8 N/mm
• shock: H 46 · J 48 · K 50 N/mm
• H — 65–75 kg, J — 75–90 kg, K — 90–100 kg

MX

• fork: E 4.6 · F 4.8 · G 5.0 N/mm
• shock: B 54 · C 56 · D 58 N/mm
• E/B — 65–75 kg (soft), F/C — 75–85 kg (medium), G/D — 85–100 kg (hard)

Stock EX (clicks out from fully closed)

• fork: compression 13, rebound 10
• shock: compression HS 14, LS 14; rebound LS 12, rebound 10

Enduro setup from the chat's pinned messages (from closed)

• front: compression 20, rebound 18
• rear: compression L 20, H 20; rebound L 15, H 15

For motocross the pinned messages have Casey Casper's table (second column).

Slow charging is better (0.3–1 kW); use fast 3.3 kW when you need it at a race.

Balancing happens around 80% and while the bike sits after a full charge, so now and then leave it on the charger overnight or for a day. A working routine from the chat: keep it at 80%, and the night before a ride charge to 100% at 0.3 kW.

Cell difference

• up to ~0.010 V — normal
• 0.02 V — acceptable
• 0.05 V and above — needs balancing (24 hours at 0.5 kW brought 0.087 → 0.007 V)

• don't run it down to zero
• don't use full throttle at low charge (below ~10–20%)
• don't charge below +4 °C (per the manual)
• store at 30–50%
• occasionally charge slowly to 100% for balancing
• charge to 100% right before a ride, don't keep it there for weeks

Below ~10% at full throttle the Stark goes into protection to save the controllers. The battery is not dying.

Forced start

1. Remove the spoiler and the carbon cover.
2. Press the power button three times for 2 s until the red light goes out.
3. Within 5 s, disconnect the orange HV connector and wait 5 s.
4. Hold the power button (red lights up) and within 2 s reconnect the HV.

It may take several attempts; don't do more than 10 — contact Stark support.

On newer MX firmware, starting from a full shutdown needs 4.4–4.5 V on the VCU battery, otherwise it blinks red three times.

Blinking red is sleep mode; it uses about 1.5–2% per day (phone and connectivity).

Full shutdown: hold both white map buttons (+ and −) until it blinks white.

If you leave it for several days or longer, shut it down fully.

Stark videos: switching off — https://youtu.be/PWP1QAd6Mcw, full shutdown — https://youtu.be/3iA8mMst4mw

Per the manual

• store at 0…+30 °C, ideally around +10 °C, dry and frost-free
• battery charge 30–50%; before storage run it down to 30% and charge to 50% — this balances the cells
• check the charge every two weeks; if it drops below 30%, top up to 50%; never let it run flat
• don't charge below +4 °C
• recommended operating range is 0…+25 °C

From the chat: a fully switched-off bike kept warm loses about 5% over winter. You can ride below zero, but with a warm battery from a warm garage and without charging in the cold; range is lower in the cold.

Common after moving the slider or updating the app: settings are pulled from Stark's server.

Rotating the phone between portrait and landscape and updating the app helped; later many got up to 6.6 kW without updating the bike. Most people still charge at 1–1.5 kW.

You need an inverter generator — a regular one barely charges.

• Hyundai 3.3 kW holds a 3 kW load for 1.5–2 hours, charging about 1% per minute
• TSS 3 kW — a bit slower than 1%/min, but lighter

The charger is set to 1.8–3 kW.

What came up in the chat:

• the magnetic connector inside the charger came loose — open it and check
• overheating in hot weather — protection switches it off, half an hour later it works again
• if the bike charges with someone else's charger, the charger is faulty: repair or replace (the compact one costs the same as the big one)

The stock charger is waterproof with the cover closed.

It depends heavily on power setting and riding style.

• Hard enduro: 45 km and 80% over 3.5 engine hours; 2.5 hours of slow technical crawling — 5 km and 35% used
• Easy trail riding: an EX covers up to ~80 km
• Motocross at full throttle: from 40 minutes to 1.5 hours
• Per the manual: up to 6 hours of riding, full charge about 2 hours from 220 V
• Rule of thumb from the pinned messages: MX ~30 km, EX at the same pace ~40 km

Save energy with power settings (30–45 hp), regen and gearing.

The bike's modem needs stable mobile internet (4G, not Wi-Fi). Usually the update arrives while charging or after a ride with good reception.

Per the manual: switch the bike on (On/Off button for 2 s). If the LED is magenta, the update is ready: hold + and − for 5 seconds. The chat advises holding up to ~12 seconds if it doesn't start the first time.

If it doesn't arrive

• fully shut down with the two buttons and switch on again
• write to Stark support with your VIN — they push the update
• check the modem and the SIM

Since app version 3.4.1 the update can be received via the Stark phone, without a modem connection.

The app version on the phone and the bike firmware are different numbers.

Stark video: https://youtu.be/LiSrJl6rhaI

• Register at starkfuture.com; a Gmail address works.
• The app login and password are the same as on the website.
• The previous owner or the seller must transfer the bike from their account to yours. If they drag their feet, Stark support can help.

Per the manual: the warranty is 2 years from handover to the buyer. Parts replaced under warranty don't extend it.

Not covered: skipping the maintenance schedule from the manual (missing scheduled service voids the warranty), non-original parts and modifications, repairs by unauthorized persons, crashes and accidents, normal wear, participation in official competitions, rental and commercial use, submersion.

How to file a claim: email support@starkfuture.com with your full name, address, phone, model, VIN, purchase date, a description of the problem and photos. They may ask for proof of maintenance — dates and receipts for parts and fluids — so keep them.

From the chat's experience: they often ask for a video. Low-voltage parts are replaced without trouble; the power components (battery, motor) take long and are harder. The warranty can be extended for a fee on the website.

Once the warranty has expired, it can't be renewed or extended.

• Oil: 75W-90 gear oil (or 80W-90)
• Volume: about 80 ml — up to the check bolt
• Interval: per the manual every 40 hours, first change at about 5 hours

If you ride through water and the breather isn't raised, change it more often — water emulsion happens.

Torques: drain bolt 15 N·m, check bolt and filler plug 5 N·m.

Stark videos: MX 1.2 — https://youtu.be/MzsXAV4Ee1E, MX — https://youtu.be/24lAXWuuTGI

Overheating is almost always caused by air in the cooling system — it has to be bled properly.

People use G12+ or their own mixes. The pinned messages suggest water/concentrate 5:1 with Water Wetter additive (freezes at −8 °C): with it the fan comes on noticeably less often.

In the woods in hot weather the fan may run constantly — that's normal.

Stark videos: bleeding the cooling system, MX 1.2 — https://youtu.be/iItNWwhdmEQ, MX — https://youtu.be/dZMHxFu8dU4

Don't ignore pump messages: stop and restart, otherwise the bike may cut out while riding.

Common causes:

• dirt or moisture in the fan — wash, blow out, check that it spins
• the pump itself — new ones are sold by parts dealers

The fan impeller isn't serviced separately — the whole fan is replaced.

Most often, according to the chat:

• poor connector contact — plugs under the phone holder and dash, the connector on the right under the plastic, connectors on the EX: press in, reconnect
• firmware — for many the problem went away after an update
• stuck or shorted buttons and the brake light switch

In difficult cases Stark support diagnoses remotely (motor position sensors and motors have been replaced under warranty).

Check the button on the control switch: moisture or oxidized contacts make the mode stick. Sticky buttons were fixed by taking them apart and lightly cleaning the inside with fine sandpaper.

It doesn't mean Stark has locked the bike.

• whether the bike lock is enabled in the app
• the plug under the dash (phone holder)

A red LED at power-on is one of the signs of a faulty throttle.

The throttle is electronic and breaks in crashes — many turn it downward and fit handguards or bar-end plugs.

First place goes to VargLink: according to users, it works better than the other unofficial apps.

• VargLink — charging control, including remote, and fault diagnostics (the bike's error log): https://varg.aupov.tech
• VargPilot — a replacement for the stock app: telemetry, HUD, logging
• starkvibe.ru — themes for VargPilot, the Stark Map and a VargPilot ↔ Stark switcher without reinstalling
• FENR — an iPhone app (App Store "FENR – Unleash your varg")
• SVAG — telemetry and balancing (TestFlight and Google Play links in the pinned messages)
• there is a separate app for WearOS watches by a chat member

The stock app is disabled via a website (starkvibe.ru has a switcher). There is a risk something goes wrong, but by the chat's experience it's already very small.

VargPilot cuts the connection to Stark's server, so for warranty claims many switch back to the stock app.

• Original phone — ask Stark support or parts sellers.
• On the older MX — buy a similar device (Blackview 6300 Pro) and transfer a dump from a working Stark phone.

Stark videos: removing and installing the phone: MX 1.2 (Arkenstone) — https://youtu.be/ZPb7d-8MR3o, MX — https://youtu.be/k9ScGrnVjWM

No, the mode maps work without a subscription. The subscription is needed for throttle and brake curves (TC Braking); VargPilot gives the same.

If the maps don't show, switch the dashboard view to the map.

Owners' examples:

• main — 45 hp, regen 0–40%, no TC
• wet and loose off-camber, long descents — 30 hp, regen 70–100%, TC 80–100%
• climbs — the "sweet spot" of 55 hp and 40% traction
• pushing the bike — 10–15 hp, regen 100%

There's no point going below 30–35 hp except for pushing.

It's a matter of taste.

• Motocross: many run 0–30%. With strong regen the front dives when you close the throttle, and in the wet the rear wheel can try to overtake the front.
• Woods and descents: regen helps engine-brake and adds a little charge (a long descent gave back 4%).
• Long races: from 20% is recommended to save energy.

Only crawl mode holds the bike with the motor — that's the hill hold, but it uses battery.

Otherwise hold it with the throttle or brake; you can fit a parking lock on the front and rear brakes.

1. Replace the brake fluid.
2. Bleed it: if the lever goes all the way to the bar, there's air in the system. Laying the bike on its left side and pumping the lever about 15 times helps.
3. Fit a spring-steel disc (sold by aftermarket makers).

For the rear, people also fit a 9 mm clutch master cylinder and Polisport levers.

Stark video: rear caliper service, MX 1.2 — https://youtu.be/WPdC1iC7LbQ

The same as KTM: original, Brembo, and other KTM-fit pads.

• rear — TRW MCB743SI
• front — TRW MCB648SI

• Front (right) — KTM 1:1, Polisport for Brembo.
• Left hand rear brake — Polisport, or a Braktec clutch lever (HQV/GasGas) with light filing; Braktec doesn't fit the stock Brembo.
• There are cheap marketplace levers (need filing) and 3D-printed "unbreakable" ones.

Yes: ready-made kits exist — a cylinder screws in instead of the plug, with a banjo to the hand master cylinder.

A twin-piston rear caliper is fitted with a milled adapter bracket (with or without a disc guard).

1. Check that the springs match your weight in gear (see the marking). If not, clickers won't help — change the springs. A working setup from the chat: Öhlins on the shock, WP or Yamaha on the fork.
2. Set the SAG (~110 mm in gear).
3. Service the suspension: the factory oil is "strange" and the shock is sometimes not vacuum-filled. On a new bike a service is advised after 5–30 hours.

Suspension tuners are recommended in the Stark Varg chat.

SAG is measured from the rear axle to the SAG mark on the rear fender, on level ground, with the rider sitting in the middle. Three positions:

• A — unloaded, rear wheel off the ground
• B — bike on its wheels under its own weight
• C — rider in full gear on the bike

Targets

• A − B (static sag) = 40–45 mm
• A − C (race sag) = 102–108 mm

These are the old MX manual values. In the EX and MX 1.2 manuals: A − B = 40 ± 3 mm, A − C = 110 ± 3 mm.

Race sag is set with spring preload: loosen the lock ring and turn the spring itself by hand. If it's tight, lift the wheel or spray some WD-40.

If static sag isn't 40–45 mm with correct race sag, the spring doesn't match your weight.

After crashes, loosen the fork leg bolts in the triple clamps, shake the fork so it settles, and retighten — a must-do procedure. The bar mounts sit on rubber dampers and can end up crooked.

Torques: triple clamps 13–14 N·m bottom and 17 top, handlebar 30 N·m.

Stock: EX — 12/48, MX — 14/47.

• 12/48–12/52 — popular for hard enduro: lower current and heat, more economical in slow technical riding
• 13/47 — faster
• 12/52 — for crawling, loses on fast sections

Sprockets are bought from Mayak Lab (KTM ones fit too). Minimum rear is 43 teeth; below that the teeth hit the bolts.

RK MXU UW-ring Gold 520, 114 links (SMX1-RW-T-01).

For 12/52 or 13/50 a 116-link chain is used. Some replace the stock riveted chain with one that has a master link.

Target: 45 mm, for sand — 50 mm. Measure from the swingarm to the chain right behind the slider, bike on a stand. Less than that and the chain goes tight as a string when the swingarm compresses; from the factory the chain is sometimes too tight.

Don't confuse this with 25–32 mm — that's the slack of the chain itself, not the distance from the swingarm.

Mayak Lab makes a chain tension gauge for the Stark.

How to adjust: loosen the rear axle (torque 80 N·m) — you can't adjust without it, set it with the adjusters, tighten the axle.

The chain slider on the swingarm is usually a KTM one with an adapter.

Stark video: removing and installing the chain, MX 1.2 — https://youtu.be/tQw_BhAxjc4

Engage crawl mode or reverse and undo it with an impact wrench. Without one, brace a ratchet against the footpeg and give it a gentle bit of throttle — the Stark will undo it itself.

Usually you'd hold the rear wheel so the chain doesn't turn.

Stark video: replacing the front sprocket, MX 1.2 — https://youtu.be/m_4MPSopNKg

• Front — fits as is, with KTM spacers.
• Rear from a TPI — swap the seals and spacers.
• Rear from a TBI — the spacer sleeve must be replaced (25 mm axle).
• With a KTM 2026 wheel the spacers were changed.

Stark videos: removing and installing the rear wheel, MX 1.2 — https://youtu.be/pcqAfkvK998, front — https://youtu.be/GLvPtIIWlus

Factory tubes are thin — many replace them after the first rides.

People fit heavy-duty tubes (4–6 mm, Mitas, HD), Tubliss, Tubliss-mousse or a mousse; many also run Tubliss or mousse up front.

• With a mousse you need a rim lock (one is enough), otherwise the tire spins on the rim.
• Hard enduro pressure with Tubliss — about 0.2–0.3 bar.

Mousse per the manual: lubricate with mousse gel at least every 5 hours of riding, no faster than 130 km/h, off-road only, rim lock recommended; store at +5…+30 °C in a box, away from sunlight.

Almost all bearings are the same as the KTM SX-F 2022, except the front wheel — it uses the same as the rear, 6005.

• motor and gearbox cover guards — Mayak Lab, NICECNC, carbon or 3D-printed from the file in the pinned messages
• linkage guard
• handguards or bar-end plugs — the throttle is electronic and breaks in crashes
• a long seat cover with grip — the stock one is slippery
• a convenient box for the charger

The chain guide on the EX doesn't need replacing — it's thicker there.

A common problem: the tray plastic splits and the mounts in the foam tear out.

People fit a new tray and foam plus a skid plate (HardGlide, carbon). Lost threaded inserts in the plastic are glued or melted back in.

Inner handlebar diameter:

• on newer Starks — 13 mm
• on older ones (e.g. MX 1.0) — 14 mm

Regular KTM plugs fit a 14 mm bar. For 13 mm, drill the hole out or use plugs from trial bikes.

Opinions differ: many sold their gas bikes and ride only the Stark, others keep an ICE bike as a backup.

What to expect:

• waiting for warranty parts — weeks to months
• the modem + SIM + updates combination
• the Stark is heavier than a gas bike

Coming from a 250 cc, it's advised to start at 60 hp, not 80.

• a battery status screenshot — cell difference and capacity are what matter most
• error history
• whether the modem connects and the firmware is up to date
• whether the seller will transfer the bike to your Stark account
• engine hours in the app can be off

An EX with carbon guards, handguards, Tubliss and a bag weighs about 126 kg on the scales.

The load on the bar when lifting is a bit higher than a KTM 300 TBI, though many find the difference significant. A 60 kg rider can ride it, but hauling it around is hard.

• Per the manual: on a level trailer, with straps around the fork legs above the bottom triple clamp on both sides. Don't lift the bike with lifting gear — only roll it on its wheels.
• From the chat: it can also lie on its side in a trailer.
• Under a cover on the road the wind rubs the decals — use a cover only for storage.
• In winter on an open trailer road salt quickly causes rust — a covered trailer is better.

EX (enduro)

• power 44 kW (Standard, 60 hp) / 60 kW (Alpha, 80 hp), motor torque 70 / 90 N·m
• battery 7.2 kWh, 420 V
• weight 120 kg (race trim), top speed 129 km/h
• tires 90/90-21 and 140/80-18

MX 1.2 (motocross)

• same power, torque and battery
• weight 118 kg, top speed 154 km/h
• tires 90/90-21 and 140/80-18

MX (first, gen1/gen2)

• 44.7 / 59.7 kW, torque 60 / 80 N·m
• battery 6.48 kWh, 420 V
• weight 118 kg, top speed 110 km/h

Common: up to 6 hours of riding, charging about 2 hours from 220 V, service life per the manual — 500 engine hours, max RPM 13,900 (14,200 on the first MX). Suspension by rider weight: Soft 65–75, Medium 75–90, Hard 90–100 kg.

• Gearbox oil — SAE 75W-90, 80 ml
• Coolant — glycol-based, 600 ml
• Brake fluid — DOT 4 / 5.1 for the front brake and the foot rear brake; DOT 4 for the hand rear brake
• Grease — silicone on rubber parts, lithium on bearings and pivots
• Chain — off-road chain lube

Factory fill and Stark's recommendation is Motorex.

• Before and after every ride — lube the chain
• After every ride — bleed air from the fork, lube the dock latch mechanism, wash the bike
• 5 engine hours — first oil change (break-in)
• 15 engine hours or 12 months — fork oil, clean and grease the shock and linkage bearings
• 40 engine hours or 12 months — fork and shock service, gearbox oil change
• 80 engine hours or 12 months — inspect motor gears and bearings
• Every 12 months — replace brake fluid and coolant

Whichever comes first; Stark assigns some jobs to a workshop. Missing the manual's service schedule voids the warranty — keep dates and receipts.

Per the EX manual (cold tires, front and rear):

• on the road — 2.0 bar (29 psi)
• off-road — 1.0 bar (14.5 psi)

EX and MX 1.2 tire sizes: 90/90-21 front, 140/80-18 rear.

From the chat: in hard enduro with Tubliss people ride at 0.2–0.3 bar.

EX and MX 1.2

• blue — charging
• green — on, ready to ride
• blinking green — neutral, throttle disabled (press − to get solid green)
• red — not ready to ride yet
• blinking magenta — update ready
• purple — crawl backward (hold the lower button)
• yellow — crawl forward (hold the upper button)

First MX: dark blue — charging, light blue — charging with cooling running, red — lights up before switching off, magenta — update.

From the chat: blinking red on a switched-off bike means sleep mode.

Per the manual

• switch the bike off and remove the phone from the dock
• knock off dirt with cold water from a hose
• no pressure washer — water damages bearings and gets into the wiring
• body — sponge with a neutral cleaner (pH 6–8), wheels and spokes — with a brush
• chain — a rag with degreaser
• rinse with a gentle stream, dry in the sun or wipe dry
• once dry, lube the chain: rear wheel lifted, turn it by hand and spray lube, wipe off the excess

Don't turn the chain with the throttle — only by hand via the wheel.

Per the manual

• tightness of bolts and nuts (per the torque table)
• tires, pressure, rims and spokes, wheel play
• brakes: lever travel, leaks, pad and disc wear
• battery charge — charge if below 20%; the battery vent isn't clogged with dirt
• coolant level, leaks, fan spins freely
• chain tension and wear, slider, sprockets
• wiring and connectors — nothing pinched
• the phone charges and is paired with the bike, read the error log on the phone
• suspension: no oil leaks, bump stop intact, shock spring nut tight
• LED isn't magenta (otherwise update)

Yes, per the manual — after every ride. Bike on a stand, fork fully unloaded: open the bleed screw on top of each leg until the air escapes, then close it.

Fork adjustments: compression — clockwise is stiffer, counterclockwise softer; rebound — clockwise is slower, counterclockwise faster. Set both legs the same.

Hand brakes: the adjuster on the lever clockwise — less free play (bite point further from the bar), counterclockwise — more.

Pedal position: loosen the 10 mm lock nut, raise or lower the pedal with the 8 mm bolt, tighten the lock nut.

Pedal travel: loosen the 13 mm lock nut, move the bite point with the 10 mm bolt, tighten the lock nut.

1. Stand the bike securely on its skid plate on the charging stand.
2. Press the button on the charging port cover and remove it.
3. Connect the cable to the bike, then the mains cable to a grounded socket with an RCD.
4. Hold the On/Off button until the LED turns blue.

Restrictions per the manual: don't charge below +4 °C, after exposure to sea water, near flammables, unattended or under a cover; after charging, disconnect the charger from the bike and the socket right away. If the battery is hot to the touch or swollen, disconnect and don't use it.

Stark video: https://youtu.be/o2_6Vm1RVm4

Stark has YouTube playlists with step-by-step videos on removing and installing components. There are about a hundred, with no voice or captions — they only show the work; check the manual for torques.

• MX (first) — https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkap5aPwLLRBoeCpkpNh-ayt6BO0oiq2y
• EX — https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkap5aPwLLRCEirHu95EHvDsCDujl3ia_
• MX 1.2 — https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkap5aPwLLRBqClumfq428p7DvfueeWdW

What's covered: unboxing and assembly, switching on and off, updating, charging; wheels, fork, shock, swingarm, linkage; brakes and master cylinders; chain and front sprocket; gearbox oil change and cooling bleeding, pump, radiator; VCU, wiring, handlebar, dock, control switch, throttle; plastics, subframe, side stand; on the EX — lights, indicators, brake sensors, horn, steering lock.

MX 1.2 / EX

• spoiler (plastics assembly) — https://youtu.be/PepXYSDov4Y
• carbon spoiler — https://youtu.be/BPgD2QsgliA
• left side panel — https://youtu.be/n6UB5h2uEY4
• right side panel — https://youtu.be/YB6k0gPqjXY
• front number plate — https://youtu.be/5MwxP4-j-fg
• rear fender — https://youtu.be/tFFOnzXoS5U
• mud flap — https://youtu.be/Xw7sG88qKC8
• skid plate — https://youtu.be/Mwtx8YGQqe8
• subframe — https://youtu.be/BqxuHpaQHlE
• footpegs — https://youtu.be/3jf77p82xLY
• side stand — https://youtu.be/fdXu24nS1u8

MX (first)

• spoiler assembly — https://youtu.be/VXPgR7LWs-s
• left side panel — https://youtu.be/rAgHqT-u0PM
• right side panel — https://youtu.be/30UH5FZOhwA
• front number plate — https://youtu.be/SFK_6b-PAXE
• front fender — https://youtu.be/K6fHIdZxBX8
• mud flap — https://youtu.be/9CoUnXaVy3Q
• skid plate — https://youtu.be/N0Fm4B5MsLw
• side stand — https://youtu.be/Y32ZHBcOuaA

EX

• license plate holder — https://youtu.be/-GyfgsF6rUk
• handguards — https://youtu.be/L_xPYdc5tjw

The videos have no voice — they only show the work; check the manual for torques. The EX shares components with the MX 1.2 — see the MX 1.2 videos.

MX 1.2 / EX

• VCU — https://youtu.be/QmTcjvOdRrY
• wiring harness — https://youtu.be/SW23dNSCWpA
• phone dock — https://youtu.be/p3jrXkU519k
• Arkenstone phone — https://youtu.be/ZPb7d-8MR3o
• handlebar — https://youtu.be/BDqmEHqy_vQ
• throttle — https://youtu.be/iWtOpqtUmMo
• control switch — https://youtu.be/eYEhCEVRSfY

MX (first)

• VCU — https://youtu.be/gTeNcdEYqp4
• battery — https://youtu.be/WtnSutMhIqE
• charging port — https://youtu.be/2auwe312ncs
• powertrain (motor + inverter) — https://youtu.be/wKgq2c-WlFs
• dock — https://youtu.be/-VddwbLEZko
• phone — https://youtu.be/k9ScGrnVjWM
• handlebar — https://youtu.be/hMoE3P0_q7E
• throttle — https://youtu.be/zP623x53H-I
• control switch — https://youtu.be/2n49aoU9KEk
• upper steering bearing — https://youtu.be/uc9hPByhKIA

EX — lights and sensors

• headlight — https://youtu.be/gmOusU7eCRQ
• front indicators — https://youtu.be/J5YUXsPOPCE
• tail light — https://youtu.be/i4CMmfv86wQ
• rear indicators — https://youtu.be/dm2rDAD4Esc
• horn — https://youtu.be/9P_dmj_X0LQ
• steering lock cylinder — https://youtu.be/FmNoajqid1w
• front brake sensor — https://youtu.be/9rKa7Zdby4A
• foot brake sensor — https://youtu.be/QTWNRv_P3KQ
• hand rear brake sensor — https://youtu.be/37Nlq-xu0bg

The videos have no voice — they only show the work; check the manual for torques. The EX shares components with the MX 1.2 — see the MX 1.2 videos.

MX 1.2 / EX

• fork — https://youtu.be/FoGSZn_VOdI
• rear shock — https://youtu.be/xsRjWXCPaLc
• pull rods — https://youtu.be/6JpfQIFO_rE
• rocker — https://youtu.be/0FoKLSbUFF4
• swingarm — https://youtu.be/Cf8d7EqnRig
• front wheel — https://youtu.be/GLvPtIIWlus
• rear wheel — https://youtu.be/pcqAfkvK998

MX (first)

• fork — https://youtu.be/g8WfkgsCqBI
• rear shock — https://youtu.be/s-pQVWsXvz0
• pull rods — https://youtu.be/yNa4CXP0EMk
• rocker — https://youtu.be/SCClqTIzyI0
• swingarm — https://youtu.be/CerLvHreJ-Q
• front wheel — https://youtu.be/dymHVOlRNpg
• rear wheel — https://youtu.be/A4FPF4G-vMA

The videos have no voice — they only show the work; check the manual for torques. The EX shares components with the MX 1.2 — see the MX 1.2 videos.

MX 1.2 / EX

• front brake assembly — https://youtu.be/pJ9P35kyWkI
• front caliper — https://youtu.be/QYF3S5mr1m8
• front master cylinder — https://youtu.be/BZ6Wk-h8_fA
• rear caliper service — https://youtu.be/WPdC1iC7LbQ
• rear master cylinder — https://youtu.be/_zuf6jAthuo
• hand rear brake — https://youtu.be/KCcWJrdij60
• foot brake — https://youtu.be/JBqwHpLQ798
• brake pedal — https://youtu.be/k-nXZX6ZC_s

MX (first)

• front brake assembly — https://youtu.be/HPDYJlpExLc
• front caliper — https://youtu.be/5zfVy-vV_9U
• hand master cylinder — https://youtu.be/RATa3ZFhgU8
• brake hose bracket — https://youtu.be/2pdAbQk4WKk
• foot brake — https://youtu.be/2k2su-4IE58
• foot master cylinder — https://youtu.be/hk1tPRRr2gI
• brake pedal — https://youtu.be/w7YDBJMmlqo

EX

• rear disc guard — https://youtu.be/SSy8KthLilc

The videos have no voice — they only show the work; check the manual for torques. The EX shares components with the MX 1.2 — see the MX 1.2 videos.

MX 1.2 / EX

• chain — https://youtu.be/tQw_BhAxjc4
• front sprocket — https://youtu.be/m_4MPSopNKg
• countershaft — https://youtu.be/N5_INHPwDQ0
• gearbox oil change — https://youtu.be/MzsXAV4Ee1E
• cooling system bleeding — https://youtu.be/iItNWwhdmEQ
• pump — https://youtu.be/aTduBP2kUcI
• radiator — https://youtu.be/NoN5L__G2m8

MX (first)

• chain — https://youtu.be/zD5KW3tjKPg
• gearbox oil change — https://youtu.be/24lAXWuuTGI
• cooling system bleeding — https://youtu.be/dZMHxFu8dU4

The videos have no voice — they only show the work; check the manual for torques. The EX shares components with the MX 1.2 — see the MX 1.2 videos.

Chat members at Sea to Sky 2026

• One member rode a Stark. Forest race: 28 km, 6 of 9 checkpoints. Mountain race: 28 of 42 km; reached CP 7 two minutes before the time bar with 23% charge and retired — not enough charge or time to continue. Started the mountain race 268th of 329. Finisher. The beach race was spoiled by the chain. Forest race video: https://youtu.be/Wv-jmWVUDj0
• Another rode a KTM, made the time bar and reached the finish.
• Another rode a Stark. In the optional Special Race he dropped the bike on rocks — the front sprocket broke along with the carbon guard. Twice he went fully underwater with the Stark — the bike survived.
• Another rode a Husqvarna. According to him there were four Starks at the race; the Stark's plus is that it's easy to scout the canyon on foot with it, the minuses are weight and battery.

The Stark at Sea to Sky — experience

• On one battery Starks reach roughly checkpoint 7; bronze gate is CP 6, from CP 6 to 7 it's already silver.
• To go further, riders plan a second battery swapped at a checkpoint — CPs are almost always next to a road. Opinions on the swap differ: some say "5 minutes", others took over an hour in a workshop — without a support crew it will be hard in a race.
• Crashing is expensive: rocks hit the sprocket and guards, and in deep sand the bike is hard to lift.
• One Stark rider covered 40 km with 5% left; another finished on a Stark with 4%.
• Anyone who reaches at least the first checkpoint of the mountain race counts as a finisher.

What owners who switched from gas praise

• instant pull without clutch or gears — climbs are easier, on descents it's easy to control the bike with your feet down
• faster in motocross: at 50 hp it pulls away from amateurs on KTM 350/450; after a Honda CRF 250 — 3 seconds off a one-minute lap
• silence, no exhaust, no engine oil; many sold their gas bikes after the Stark
• Stark won the manufacturers' team classification in the FIM SuperEnduro World Championship (2026)

Downsides compared with gas

• range: on long hard races a tank lasts longer — at Sea to Sky a Stark reaches about CP 7 on one battery
• weight: the EX is about 120 kg, noticeably harder to lift than a 300 TBI
• no clutch — in extreme hard enduro and slow technical sections some miss it
• charging, service only via Stark support, long waits for warranty parts

The chat's verdict: for motocross, cross-country and moderate enduro many prefer the Stark; for multi-hour hard enduro without recharging, gas is still more dependable. The chat rules ask to compare on the merits.

Arctic Leopard E-XE 880 ("Cheetah") — per sellers' data: about 108 kg, peak about 37 kW (~50 hp), battery about 6–6.75 kWh, noticeably cheaper than a Stark.

Stark Varg EX / MX 1.2 — 120 / 118 kg, 60–80 hp, 7.2 kWh battery, liquid cooling of motor, battery and inverter.

Opinions in the chat

• the Arctic is lighter and cheaper; about 1.5 times less powerful, comparable range, and at an easy pace it may go further
• the Arctic can overheat on hard climbs — the Stark's cooling is better
• there are complaints about the Arctic's build quality (caliper centered with a washer, a loose bushing in the wheel, plastics); an owner who rode one for 10 months complained about suspension and power, switched to a Stark and is happy — the only thing he liked about the Arctic was the weight
• an Arctic seller in the chat notes the Leopard only needs charging and gearbox oil, with no "fatal" problems

In short: the Arctic is lighter and cheaper; the Stark is more powerful, with better cooling and suspension, but heavier and pricier.

These are bikes of a different class — lighter, simpler and cheaper.

• Surron Ultra Bee — per sellers' data: about 88 kg, peak about 21 kW (~28 hp), 4.4 kWh battery
• Stark Varg EX — 120 kg, 60–80 hp, 7.2 kWh, full-size motocross suspension

Opinions in the chat

• someone who owns both a Stark and a Surron: "the Surron is a solid VW Polo compared to a Porsche"
• the Ultra Bee is praised for being undemanding: two winters in snow and water without problems
• according to someone who switched, the Talaria lacks power for serious enduro

For easy rides, kids and park riding a Surron or Talaria fits better; for enduro racing and motocross — the Stark.

Jarv-E is an electric hard enduro bike developed with Graham Jarvis and built in Austria; pre-orders in Europe, first deliveries from spring 2026.

• per the manufacturer: 50 kW, 95 kg, 5.6 kWh battery, quick-swap — about 30 seconds to replace
• the Stark EX: 60 kW (Alpha), 120 kg, 7.2 kWh, battery not quick-swap

Jarvis on the Jarv-E finished 10th at Erzbergrodeo and 11th at Sea to Sky 2026 — the first finish of an electric bike at Sea to Sky.

In short: the Jarv-E is lighter and has a quick battery swap, which matters for long hard enduro; the Stark has a bigger battery and more power, and it's already on sale.

How to see it: use VargLink — varg.aupov.tech. It shows not only cell imbalance but also helps with proper charging and diagnostics.

How to reduce it

• in VargLink set the Storage (1 kW, 60%) mode and leave the bike on charge like that for a few days; you can watch the imbalance go down remotely
• another tip from the chat: set slow charging to 80% and leave it until the imbalance is gone

With a large imbalance it's not recommended to balance at 100%: some cells may get overcharged.

The latest is 1.15.0 (October 2026, released together with app 3.4.0/3.4.1). It rolls out to both the EX and the MX. If the app says the latest is 1.12, update the app anyway: after that it offers 1.15.

How to update: app 3.4.1 downloads the firmware over your phone's Wi-Fi and installs it on the bike. A working SIM in the modem is no longer required.

What changed in 1.15.0

• new secure communication with the phone: only a phone with a Stark account can connect to and unlock the bike
• because of this, third-party apps can't connect on 1.15: VargPilot, DV Watch, Svag
• VargLink works with 1.15 (from version 0.27, varg.aupov.tech). It shows and changes charging and modes alongside the official app

Before updating from 1.12: if you use VargPilot, keep in mind that it won't connect on 1.15.

Timeline: 1.10.0 — May 2026, 1.11.0 — June, 1.12.0 — July, 1.15.0 — October.

Traction control arrived with firmware 1.11.0 (June 2026). It's built into the power modes screen: the level is set separately for each mode.

• as standard — only on the Alpha version; Standard doesn't have it in the app
• on 1.10 and earlier there is no traction control
• on 1.11, some riders found that maps and traction settings got reset after the bike had been off for a long time — this was fixed in 1.12

A chat member has an X-Trig triple clamp fitted.

The phone mount works fine with it, but the holes in the panel the phone sits in had to be drilled out 1 mm upward.

If the volume up button on the Arkenstone is held down at power-on, the phone boots into the engineering menu.

This happens when a button stays pressed after a hit to the right side of the phone (e.g. the upper volume button).

What helped in the chat: restart the phone. One owner first got garbage on screen, then heard three sounds, and after a restart everything was back to normal.

• S3 Trial Tri Fix — https://s3parts.ru/product/gripsy-trial-s3-tri-fix/
• ODI Universal

On ODI the left grip is lock-on (with clamps), and the right one is glued or wired.

Lock-on on the throttle: an adapter has been made for this long ago, and many chat members already run such grips.

How to fit:

• drill a hole in two self-tapping screws with a 2.6 mm drill
• undo them with Torx T10 and replace them with 4 mm self-tapping screws of the same length and thread pitch
• take the magnet insert from makerworld, version 2

You can support VargLink on the website: https://varg.aupov.tech/#support — with USDT from outside Russia.

Stock front brake disc is 260 mm.

You can fit an oversized 270 mm disc. It needs an adapter that mounts the caliper for the larger disc.

Stock rear is 220 mm; a 240 mm disc can be fitted. The oversized rear disc needs a niceCNC adapter.

Discs and the front adapter are available from Telegram seller @kalina_s_24.